Garden Care by Season
Seasonal Garden Care Tips
A month-by-month guide to caring for your native garden in Fort Collins. Based on USDA Zone 5b conditions, our alkaline clay soils, and 15 inches of annual precipitation — written by someone who actually gardens here.
Spring
March - May
Spring in Fort Collins is unpredictable — we can get 70-degree days in March and a blizzard in April. The key is to work with the season rather than rushing it. Most native plants are tougher than you think, but timing still matters.
Cut back dormant grasses and perennials (early March)
Before new growth emerges, cut ornamental grasses to 3 to 6 inches and remove dead perennial stems. Use hand pruners or hedge shears rather than a string trimmer, which can damage crowns. If you left seed heads for winter bird forage, now is the time to clean them up.
Remove winter mulch gradually (mid-March to early April)
If you applied extra winter mulch, pull it back from plant crowns as temperatures warm. Do this gradually over 2 to 3 weeks — a late frost can still damage newly exposed growth. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches away from stems to prevent crown rot.
Assess winter damage and plan replacements (March to April)
Walk your garden and check every plant for signs of winter kill — broken branches, heaved roots, brown evergreen foliage. Do not rush to remove anything — many native plants look dead in early spring but are simply slow to emerge. Wait until mid-May before declaring a plant lost.
Begin spring planting after last frost (mid-May)
Fort Collins has an average last frost date around May 10 to 15. You can safely plant hardy natives like penstemons and grasses a few weeks earlier, but wait for frost-tender species. Spring is the best time to plant — it gives roots an entire growing season to establish before winter.
Divide overgrown perennials (April to May)
If established clumps of coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, or blanket flowers are crowding their neighbors, divide them as soon as new growth is 2 to 3 inches tall. Replant divisions immediately and water well. This is also a great way to expand your garden for free.
Apply pre-emergent weed control in garden beds (early April)
Corn gluten meal is an organic pre-emergent that prevents weed seeds from germinating. Apply it to established native garden beds before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. Do not use pre-emergents in areas where you want native plants to self-seed.
Need help with spring garden care?
Our maintenance team handles all the seasonal tasks so you can enjoy your garden without the work.
Summer
June - August
Summer in Fort Collins means intense UV, afternoon thunderstorms, and stretches of dry heat. Established native gardens handle these conditions beautifully — they evolved here, after all. But gardens in their first year need more attention.
Water deeply but infrequently (established gardens)
Established native plants rarely need supplemental watering in Fort Collins — our 15 inches of annual precipitation, including summer thunderstorms, is usually sufficient. If you do water during extended dry periods, give a deep soaking every 2 to 3 weeks rather than frequent shallow watering. Deep watering encourages deep roots.
Water new plantings regularly for the first season (first-year gardens)
Plants installed in spring need consistent moisture through their first summer while they establish root systems. Water new plantings 2 to 3 times per week for the first month, then taper to once a week through August. Water in the early morning to reduce evaporation and disease risk.
Deadhead selectively for continuous bloom (June to August)
Remove spent flowers from coneflowers, blanket flowers, and penstemons to encourage additional bloom cycles. However, stop deadheading by late August — let the final round of flowers set seed for winter bird forage and natural self-seeding. Some plants, like black-eyed Susans, are most beautiful left alone.
Monitor for pests but resist spraying (ongoing)
Native gardens attract beneficial insects along with occasional pests. Look for aphids (usually controlled by ladybugs within days), spider mites during dry spells, and powdery mildew in crowded plantings. Most issues resolve naturally in a healthy native garden — resist the urge to spray unless damage is severe.
Manage weeds while they are small (weekly quick check)
Spend 10 minutes each week pulling weeds when they are seedlings. In a well-mulched native garden, weeding is minimal. Focus on bindweed, thistle, and spurge — these are the worst offenders in Fort Collins. Pull them before they set seed to prevent next year's problems.
Enjoy your pollinators and document them (ongoing)
Summer is peak pollinator season. Watch for different bee species, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial wasps visiting your native plants. Take photos and keep a simple log — this data helps you understand which plants are the strongest performers in your specific garden and informs future planting decisions.
Need help with summer garden care?
Our maintenance team handles all the seasonal tasks so you can enjoy your garden without the work.
Fall
September - November
Fall is one of the most beautiful seasons in a native garden — grasses turn copper and gold, seed heads catch the low-angle light, and the garden takes on a warm, wild beauty. Resist the urge to clean everything up. Nature designed this season to be messy and gorgeous.
Leave seed heads standing for birds and winter interest
Coneflower, black-eyed Susan, and grass seed heads provide critical winter food for goldfinches, juncos, and sparrows. They also add stunning visual texture when dusted with frost or snow. Leave them standing through winter and cut back in early spring. This is one of the best things you can do for local wildlife.
Plant spring-blooming bulbs in October
Interplant native crocuses, alliums, and species tulips among your perennial beds. These spring bloomers will emerge and flower before your native perennials wake up, providing early-season color and the first nectar sources for early-emerging pollinators. Plant bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep in well-drained spots.
Apply a final layer of mulch (late October to November)
Add 2 to 3 inches of shredded hardwood or wood chip mulch around perennials and shrubs. This insulates root zones against Fort Collins freeze-thaw cycles, which can heave shallow-rooted plants out of the ground. Keep mulch away from stems and crowns to prevent rot.
Transplant and divide in early fall (September)
Early fall is a second excellent planting window in Fort Collins. Soil is warm, air is cooling, and fall rains are coming. Transplant or divide perennials 6 to 8 weeks before the first hard freeze (typically mid-October) to give roots time to establish before winter dormancy.
Stop fertilizing and reduce watering (October)
Native plants do not need fertilizer, but if you have been supplementing new plantings, stop by early October. You want plants to harden off for winter, not push new tender growth. Reduce watering as temperatures drop — most native plants will be heading into dormancy.
Take notes on what worked and what did not
Before winter wipes away the evidence, walk your garden and document which plants thrived, which struggled, and where you have gaps. Note bloom overlaps, color combinations you liked, and areas that felt bare. These notes are invaluable for spring planning and will save you money by avoiding repeated mistakes.
Need help with fall garden care?
Our maintenance team handles all the seasonal tasks so you can enjoy your garden without the work.
Winter
December - February
Winter is not just downtime — it is planning season. And in Fort Collins, it is also a time to give your garden an occasional drink. Our dry winters, chinook winds, and intense sun can desiccate plants and soil even when they are dormant.
Water on warm winter days (every 3 to 4 weeks when dry)
Colorado winters are deceptively dry. When we go weeks without snow and temperatures rise above 40 degrees, give your garden a deep watering — especially evergreen shrubs, newly planted trees, and anything on south- or west-facing exposures. Water midday when the ground is thawed. This single habit prevents more winter losses than anything else.
Enjoy the winter architecture of your garden
A well-designed native garden has winter beauty too. Ornamental grass skeletons catching snowflakes, coneflower seed heads silhouetted against gray skies, the structural form of native shrubs — winter reveals the bones of your garden. Take photos and share them. This is part of what makes native gardens special.
Plan next year's projects (December to February)
Winter is ideal for research, planning, and design. Browse plant catalogs, sketch ideas, and think about what you want to add or change. If you are considering a major project, contact us in January or February for a spring consultation — our schedule fills quickly once the season starts.
Order seeds and plants early (January to February)
Specialty native plant nurseries sell out of popular species by mid-spring. If you know what you want, place orders in January or February for spring delivery. As a licensed wholesale nursery, we can source plants directly for our clients — but even wholesale growers have limited supply of certain species.
Protect vulnerable plants from desiccation
If you have broadleaf evergreen shrubs or newly planted trees on exposed sites, consider applying an anti-desiccant spray in late November and again in February. Burlap windscreens can protect vulnerable plants from drying chinook winds on the west side of your property.
Think about holiday botanical decorating for next season
If you enjoyed holiday decorating this year — or wished you had booked it — the best time to plan for next year is right now. Our holiday calendar fills by early fall, and returning clients who rebook get first priority on scheduling and material selection.
Need help with winter garden care?
Our maintenance team handles all the seasonal tasks so you can enjoy your garden without the work.
Colorado-Specific Garden Wisdom
Things every Fort Collins gardener should know — regardless of season.
Our soil is alkaline clay
Fort Collins soils typically have a pH of 7.5 to 8.5 and heavy clay content. Native plants evolved in these conditions and thrive without soil amendments. Avoid adding peat moss or sulfur unless a soil test specifically indicates a problem.
We get intense UV at 5,000 feet
Our elevation means more UV radiation than lower-altitude gardens. Plants that need part shade in Denver may need full shade here. Conversely, sun-loving native plants perform exceptionally well in our intense light.
Temperature swings are extreme
Fort Collins can see 50-degree temperature swings in a single day. This stresses non-adapted plants and causes freeze-thaw cycles that heave shallow roots. Native plants with deep root systems handle these swings naturally.
Chinook winds desiccate everything
Our warm, dry winter winds can pull moisture from soil and plant tissues rapidly. Winter watering during warm, dry spells is essential — especially for newly planted material and broadleaf evergreens on west-facing exposures.
We are semi-arid — 15 inches of rain per year
Fort Collins receives about 15 inches of precipitation annually, much of it as spring snow and summer thunderstorms. Native plants that evolved here are adapted to this pattern. Overwatering is a more common killer than underwatering in native gardens.
Hail is a reality — plan for it
Northern Colorado gets significant hail events most summers. Flexible-stemmed native grasses and perennials recover from hail damage far better than rigid ornamentals. After a hail event, assess damage but give plants a few weeks to recover before removing material.
Let Us Handle the Seasonal Work
Our maintenance programs take the guesswork out of native garden care. From spring cleanup to fall mulching, we handle every seasonal task with the botanical expertise your garden deserves.